December 2025 | 1621 words | 6-minute read
In the heart of India’s tribal belt, a transformative initiative is taking root. Tata Steel Foundation’s Aatithya is working to transform traditional tribal cuisine into a vehicle for economic opportunities and cultural preservation.
Over a period of eight years, Aatithya has empowered 440 home chefs from 52 different tribes across 25 Indian states. The initiative forms a cornerstone of the Foundation’s Samvaad conclave — a platform on tribal identity in India — and is focused on building sustainable economic ecosystems. Aatithya’s origins lie in a simple observation — India’s ~10 crore tribal citizens possess centuries of culinary knowledge that remains invisible to mainstream consumers. They have been marginalised and their cuisine dismissed as “not nutritious, not tasty and mostly non-vegetarian, which is far from the truth!” says Sreya Ganguly, Manager, People Team, Tata Steel Foundation, and mentor of Tribal Cuisine at Samvaad. This oversight is not just a cultural loss, but also a missed economic opportunity for tribal communities; one that the Foundation aims to address through Aatithya.
Heritage on a plate
Launched in partnership with Indian Hotels Company Ltd (IHCL), Aatithya was first introduced in 2017 at the five-day annual Samvaad conclave, which celebrates indigenous culture, and fosters dialogue, knowledge sharing and entrepreneurship among tribal communities across India. “Tribal cuisine is rooted in traditional, nutritious cooking practices, using unprocessed, locally foraged or sourced ingredients — often grown in home gardens — which means there are also a lot of delicious vegetarian dishes,” says Ms Ganguly. “In 2017, we invited 30 tribal home chefs to curate fine dining experiences for 50 select attendees as well as set up food counters at a dedicated Aatithya section. We provided the ingredients and supplies, and the home chefs could take home all the earnings.”
Realising that the home chefs were unfamiliar with large-scale cooking and service, the Tata Steel Foundation sought help from IHCL. “We engaged graduates from IHCL’s Hotelier Development Program (HDP) to guide the home chefs on how to adapt their traditional cooking methods for bulk cooking. The training focused on standardisation, consistency, hygiene, and service, while still using their traditional cooking utensils.”
The delicacies showcased were a huge hit with the visitors and HDP graduates. Realising that these home chefs were custodians of irreplaceable cultural knowledge, the Foundation made tribal cuisine and Aatithya a core part of the Samvaad ecosystem and set out to expand the initiative. “The HDP graduates started exploring different regions, visiting forests and tribal areas, seeking individuals who were well known locally for their dishes,” says Ms Ganguly. “They got to know these people, their cooking styles, the stories associated with the dishes, why specific ingredients are used, etc. Sometimes, they found people who were teachers, shopkeepers, advocates, etc, who had other jobs and were passionate about cooking. We engaged with them and encouraged them to participate in Samvaad.”
As word spread, more people started coming forward and showed interest in the programme. “So many foods are available in the market, but our tribal community food is not available,” said Rajendra Prasad Payam of the Koya people of Telangana, while attending Samvaad 2023. “So, I am here promoting our food to the outside market through Aatithya.” Anil of the Swangla people of Himachal Pradesh chimes in, “Events like this are a big deal for tribes. There are very few platforms like this that promote tribes.”
From hearth to market
After their visits to Samvaad, many home chefs started small food carts/trucks or a home-based food business. Noticing this trend, the Foundation stepped in to help. It partnered with IHCL and the Institute of Hotel Management, Aurangabad (IHM-A) to help home chefs gain professional training through a 15-day capacity building programme. The curriculum resembles that of any well-known hospitality programme, covering a range of topics, including culinary techniques, food preservation, food industry standards, marketing strategies, and cooking for commercial production — all critical learnings for commercial success.
“Every year we identify 15 to 20 home chefs for this boot camp and help them become professional chefs,” says Ms Ganguly. The initiative has been strengthened through several workshops, including a recent 10-day session at IHM-A, with 19 home chefs from Jharkhand, Maharashtra, Chhattisgarh, Odisha, and Madhya Pradesh. “We also connect home chefs with the right people in the industry so that their businesses can flourish,” she adds.
Fuelling change
The partnership with IHCL is a crucial aspect of Aatithya. It gives home chefs the opportunity to collaborate with culinary experts and bring their dishes to the world. As the operator of India’s largest hotel chains, IHCL provides access to premium market segments that would typically be out of their reach. Tribal cuisine pop-ups are now regularly held in luxury dining establishments under the Taj brand — a dramatic elevation for dishes that were earlier confined to village kitchens.
For the home chefs, Aatithya has brought about a transformation in earning power as well as in perspective. “They discovered that their meal preparations, which they considered everyday ordinary tasks, could be a source of livelihood,” says Ms Ganguly. “They started taking pride in cooking their cuisine. Food that they earlier considered ‘ordinary’ — but was often passed down through generations — could now be something they could turn into a business. Many of them are reaching out to their mothers and grandmothers to learn the histories and stories behind their recipes and traditions. In this way, it is also helping them to reconnect with their culture.”
Flavours of empowerment
Through Aatithya, many home chefs are now blending cultural pride with economic opportunity. Take, for instance, Kummaram Arun Kumar, 28, from the Gond tribe in Utnoor, Telangana, who sells mahua laddus, a tribal superfood made from dried mahua flowers, jaggery, and dry fruits. Based on a recipe passed down by his mother Kummaram Bhagu Bai, the laddus are rich in iron, calcium, and dietary fibre, a great gluten-free source of energy, especially for pregnant women and women suffering from anaemia. Yet, despite their nutritional value, he initially struggled to scale his business due to limited awareness, financial constraints and lack of direct access to major food distribution networks.
That changed in 2023, when he first attended Samvaad and sold the mahua laddus. They quickly became a crowd favourite, especially among health-conscious visitors and hospitality professionals, who appreciated their unique flavour and nutritional value. Since then, he has taken his laddus across the country, and set up stalls at exhibitions and festivals, steadily building a growing fan base. A standout moment came at the 2024 Tata Affirmative Action Programme Convention, where he was one of eight tribal home chefs chosen to exclusively cater to delegates at the President, Mumbai - IHCL SeleQtions. He is currently working on improving packaging to increase his product’s shelf life. Future plans include forging ties with local health departments and online organic food platforms to broaden his reach.
Tribal delicacies
Hau
The Gond and Maria tribes are known for their immunity-boosting red ant chutney.
Duru Kanda Uttu
This is a hearty yam curry seasoned with spices and herbs, known for its earthy flavour and smooth texture — a comforting tribal staple.
Chilka roti
A soft flatbread made from fermented rice batter, offering a light and wholesome flavour.
Healta Uttu
Made with freshly harvested bamboo shoots, the curry is know for tangy flavour and rich aroma, reflecting forest-based food traditions.
From her kitchen
Of the 440 home chefs empowered so far, 80% are women, and that isn’t surprising, given that the Foundation’s vision is to ‘create an enlightened, equitable society in which every individual realises her potential with dignity’. “People often ask us about the ‘her’ in that statement,” says Ms Ganguly. “We tell them that it isn’t a grammatical error; it has been placed there purposefully, because women are the ones who drive change. Once they absorb knowledge, they put it into practice and give back, either to their families or the wider community. It’s incredible how they take ownership and accountability, and we have seen that in Aatithya. Once they are equipped with the right tools, they are determined to improve their lives, their families’ lives. That is how Aatithya is also driving change in communities from within.”
One such example is Sandhyavati Mardi from the Santhali community in eastern India. A grassroots leader and entrepreneur, she has won local ward elections five years in a row. On most days, she can be found running her chai pakoda shop, but come November, she makes her way to Samvaad without fail. Ask Ms Mardi what she’s most proud of and she’s quick to say it’s her family — and the fact that she ensured all four of her children are educated and pursuing their careers.
Entrepreneurial power
Through Aatithya, the Foundation aims to build a nationwide network of home chefs, empowering them with livelihood opportunities and entrepreneurial skills, while introducing wider audiences to the unique flavours of tribal cuisine. The potential for expanding this programme is immense: India is home to over 700 scheduled tribes in India, representing ~10 crore people, according to the 2011 census. By leveraging IHCL’s hospitality expertise and the Foundation’s large community network, the programme has created a strong framework for entrepreneurship. But for tribal communities, Aatithya offers something more empowering than financial opportunity — economic agency rooted in cultural pride.
— Kermin Bhot